Tuning your antenna, step by step
The theory lives in Antennes; here we act. Goal: start from a standard telescopic whip and get the best possible reception on the band you're listening to — measured, not guessed.
1. The right length
A quarter-wave antenna receives best when the whip is a quarter of the wavelength, shortened by about 5% (the wave "slows down" in metal — velocity factor):
L (cm) ≈ 7125 / f (MHz)
| Band | Frequency | Whip length | Telescopic? |
|---|---|---|---|
| FM radio | 100 MHz | 71 cm | almost fully extended |
| Airband (voice) | 125 MHz | 57 cm | three quarters out |
| 2 m amateur | 145 MHz | 49 cm | two thirds out |
| ISM 433 | 433 MHz | 16.5 cm | 2–3 segments |
| ISM 868 (LoRa, sensors) | 868 MHz | 8.2 cm | just the first segment |
| ADS-B (aircraft) | 1090 MHz | 6.5 cm | first segment, or a dedicated antenna |
| 2.4 GHz (WiFi, drones) | 2440 MHz | 2.9 cm | too short — use a dedicated antenna |
Remember the gesture: frequency up → antenna shorter. A fully extended telescopic on 868 MHz receives worse than one pulled out 8 cm: too long, it's simply out of tune.
2. Placement (often more important than length)
- High and in the clear: near a window; better, outside. Walls and reinforced concrete eat UHF.
- Vertical: almost everything you'll listen to (local FM, airband, ISM, ADS-B) is vertically polarised. A horizontal whip halves your signal.
- Away from noise: switch-mode power supplies, screens, USB hubs and routers pollute the noise floor for several metres. A shielded USB extension that moves the SDR away from the PC is the best value upgrade there is.
- A ground plane helps: a magnetic-base antenna sitting on a metal plate (tin box, car roof, radiator) completes the quarter wave and easily gains a few dB.
3. Measure instead of believing
Open the Explore console and use the "Signals heard" panel:
- Tune to the target band (preset or manual frequency).
- Note the SNR of the strongest signal.
- Change one thing only (length, position, orientation), wait two seconds, read the SNR again.
- Keep whichever configuration wins. Repeat.
Reference points: < 10 dB is painful listening, 15–25 dB is comfortable, > 25 dB excellent. If the whole spectrum jumps at once, that's not better reception — that's too much gain saturating the receiver; see Bien l'utiliser en live : la méthode.
4. Quick troubleshooting
| Symptom | Likely cause | Fix |
|---|---|---|
| Nothing rises above the noise | gain too low, antenna unplugged | raise gain in steps, check the connector |
| Very high noise floor | USB/power-supply interference nearby | move the SDR away, shielded extension, ferrites |
| Strong station but choppy audio | saturation (gain too high) | lower the gain until the floor is flat |
| Good FM, bad 868 MHz | antenna too long for the band | shorten to ~8 cm or swap antennas |
| Repeating ghost signals | images (overloaded front end) | lower the gain, move away from strong transmitters |
5. Going further
When you want purpose-built antennas (V-dipole for satellites, ADS-B collinear, directional Yagi), matching and SWR theory is in Lignes, ROS et adaptation, and hardware choices in Quel matériel pour débuter ?.
Related: Antennes · Bien l'utiliser en live : la méthode · Bandes intéressantes à explorer